Fujifilm X-H1 Review

Fujfilm X-H1 Review for Shotkit

This guest Fujifilm X-H1 review is by Unit Still Photographer John Platt.

This review based on my use of the Fujifilm X-H1 in my role as a Unit Still Photographer working on Film and TV drama. I will cover the positives and a few negatives in using the camera on set over the last four months.

I won’t be going into all the technical differences between the Fujifilm X-H1 , it’s predecessor, the X-T2 and how it compares to the X-T3. You can, and probably have already pursued those online.

(If not you can follow this link to the Fujifilm Global site where I have set the comparison up for you.)

Before I begin it’s important for me to state that I use Fuji Cameras for no other reason than they do the job well.

I am not paid, I am not a Fuji Ambassador. I do have a relationship with Fujifilm Australia formed over the three years I have been shooting with the Fujifilm X Camera System but that’s it. If I like a aspect of the camera I will say so, if I don’t, I will also say so.

With all Unit Stills work there is an embargo on the releasing of imagery prior to the production being released or promoted. Accordingly I am unable to include any images taken on set with the X-H1 at this time, but will update here as they become available.

Fujifilm X-H1 Review | Introduction

In a world where it’s not unusual for a production to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on a day’s shooting, time really is money.

I have to work quickly and quietly, in a perfect world be neither seen nor heard and shooting as much as possible while the scenes are being filmed and the movie camera is rolling. I have to be flexible and so does my gear.

Without exception I work with two cameras and for the last show, a four-month drama shoot for Sony TV set in the US but filmed entirely in Sydney I used both a Fujifilm X-T3 and X-H1 .

When the Fujifilm X-H1 was released in March 2018 I took a look but held back. Like many Fuji shooters thinking of an upgrade it seemed the prudent place to position oneself as rumours of the X-T3 immediately began to surface.

Fast forward to September and I am in a quandary – X -T3 with the new X-Trans 4 sensor or X-H1 with IBIS? Solution: one of each.

With that decision made it took little time to familiarise myself with the new cameras but as the show progressed I found myself preferring to use the Fujifilm X-H1 . Not only during night shoots and darker interiors where the lighting levels were much lower and the IBIS on the Fujifilm X-H1 came into its own but in situations where it didn’t really matter which body I shot with.

Fujifilm X-H1 Review | Build

Just looking at the Fujifilm X-H1 you get a sense of its strength which is confirmed when it’s in your hands. You can feel the 25% thicker magnesium alloy compared to the X-T2 and I like that.

The exterior coating has an improved scratch resistance which equates to 8h on the mohs hardness scale. Mohs hardness scale? A measure on a scale of 1-10 of one minerals ability to scratch another. Talc is at 1, regular glass is at 5 and a diamonds at 10.

Real world weight of body and battery is 690g add the Vertical Booster Grip and additional two batteries 1082g add a Fujinon 35mm f/1.4 a further 205g.

For some that may be too much – for me it’s just right. Its light enough to carry around all day and strong enough to handle the bump and grind of the film set where gear is always moving and the odd collision is to be expected.

In my view it’s important for any camera at the professional end of the range to not only be able to deliver the goods image wise but to look the part doing so. There are those who may disagree – “does it matter what the camera looks like as long as it does the job?”

I believe there is a mindset out there that says if a camera looks professional then of course the photographer must be as well, this also works in reverse and in my world when you are meeting cast on day one of filming that you haven’t previously worked with, appearances are extremely important.

The only issue I have with the build is the small amount of movement within the lens mount. It is there with all the X Series cameras I have owned. It is most noticeable with the 55-140mm zoom. It’s no more than .25-.5mm but it is there and something that I hope Fujifilm will one day correct. With the GFX-50s the lenses are rock solid in the mount, I wonder why not with it’s smaller cousins.

[Related: Fujifilm GFX-50s Review]

Another issue I have found is nothing to do with the build of the Fujifilm X-H1 body but the lenses I attach to it. Actually not even the lenses but the lens hoods. I have found through constant use the lens hoods to the 23mm, 56mm and 90mm have become increasingly loose to a point where just brushing up against an arm or leg can twist them off the lens.

Fujifilm X-H1 Review | Ergonomics

As with all the X series cameras I’ve owned I always purchase the battery booster grip (Fujifilm VPB-XH1). With the Fujifilm X-H1 the addition of the booster grip allows my hand to fit snugly within the confines of the recessed handle.

The deeper recess on the Fujifilm X-H1 compared to both the X-T3 and X-T2 provides a more secure fit and feels substantial and solid within my hand. My thumb sits comfortably against the rear thumb rest which allows for one handed shooting, an option I don’t often take but when I need to I can literally shoot around corners.

Using the rear screen opened to it’ maximum position I can hold the camera at arm’s reach, with the electronic level activated I can be assured all my images will be straight. one example of this cameras flexibility.

I shoot with a combination of zoom and prime lenses, more often than not in manual focus mode. No matter which lens I have attached my left palm cradles the bottom left corner of the Booster Grip which positions my left thumb and index finger perfectly at the focus ring of any prime and zoom ring of the zooms.

Similarly when shooting portrait orientation the camera is comfortably supported in my left palm.

With the Fujifilm X-H1 the viewfinder block sits proud of the rear screen by 3mm – not a huge amount but as a left eye shooter it’s enough to stop my nose and face rubbing up against the screen as it does with the X-T3 where the block is aligned flush with the screen, a little thing but it makes a difference.

Fujifilm X-H1 Review | Functions

The one function that sets the Fujifilm X-H1 apart from all other cameras in the X series range is the addition of In Body Image Stabilisation (IBIS), which allows up to 5.5 stops of stabilization. For me a very welcome addition.

Previously I would be forced to use a monopod when shooting in low light with my XF56mm and XF90mm lenses. Now I can go hand held with confidence.

IBIS isn’t the only aspect of the Fujifilm X-H1 that sets it apart. Fujifilm introduced shock absorbing suspension in the form of four springs attached to the mechanical shutter. This minimizes camera shake, maximises image stabilisation and also results in the quietest mechanical shutter of all the X series cameras.

This is a big tick for me… why? When the movie camera is rolling absolute silence is required. With the quieter shutter of the Fujifilm X-H1 I can shoot single frame in all but the quietest locations without fear of being heard by the sound recordist.

The ‘Feather Touch’ shutter button itself is unique. More a hair trigger shutter button in my view and one I took a while to get used to. With the X-T1, 2 and 3 there are two definite positions when depressing the shutter button, first for autofocus and the second to release the shutter. With the Fujifilm X-H1 these two positions are much less definite which can lead to many an image being taken unintentionally.

With the Fujifilm X-H1 Fujifilm have increased the resolution of the EVF to 3.69 million dots from the 2.36 million dots on the X-T2. A clearly visible increase which has made manual focus even more accurate and precise.

Let’s step outside the body to its exterior and look at the various buttons and dials.

Most obvious is the replacement of the exposure compensation dial with the sub LCD monitor. For me a welcome move and extremely useful for quickly checking your most important settings. It is customisable in both Stills and Movie mode.

The exposure compensation is now a small button to the right of the shutter release. As a manual shooter I have no need for this function so have customised it in the Setup/Button/Dial Setting/Function (Fn) Setting to trigger the Face/Eye Detection Settings..

To the right of the rear screen you have from top to bottom your Focus Toggle Switch, the Menu Button surrounded by 4 Selector Buttons and finally the Display/Back Button. Fujifilm have moved the Quick Menu button from the rear of the camera to the rear of the Thumb Rest. I

like the idea of repositioning the Q Menu Button to allow for a more space but question its placement on the rear of the thumb rest. I would often activate the Q Menu as I raised the camera to my eye if my thumb didn’t exactly hit the Thumb Rest sweet spot .

Fortunately for me the Q Menu is not something I use and it’s possible to disable it. Menu/Setup/Button Dial Setting/Lock/Lock Setting/Selected Function/Back/Function Selection and select Q Button.

The Fujifilm X-H1 has eleven customisable buttons and if you need them four customisable swipes on the LCD screen, left and right, up and down. I use three of these on a regular basis and admit to forgetting at times what the others are set to. Most often I’m switching between Mechanical and Electronic shutters followed up by Colour Temperature and Film Simulation.

I actually have one button set to Large Indicators Mode, not because I need it but I have found that every now and then the camera slips into the Large Indicator Mode and I need to return it to it’s normal mode. Similarly the X-T3 has a similar idiosyncrasy but with the Sports Finder and similarly I have assigned a function button to Sports Mode so I can turn it off.

Arriving with the Fujifilm X-H1 is the option of using the Front and Rear Command dials to set Shutter Speed, Aperture and ISO. For me this is the most exciting addition to the functionality of the camera other than IBIS, greatly streamlining the exposure setting process. I no longer have to remove my left hand from the camera to change the ISO on the top dial nor have to adjust Aperture on the lens.

The spring loaded Command Dials are able to accommodate two functions each. I have programmed the cameras Front Dial to change both Shutter Speed and ISO with the Rear Dial programmed to adjust Aperture and Focus Check. This is a function I had with my Canon 5D mk2 and found it frustrating that the command dials were there on the Fuji cameras but were not programmable to achieve this up to now.

Finally though it’s here and I must say with the ability of each dial to accommodate two functions it’s an improvement on the Canon version.

Another of my favorite functions is the ability to shoot remotely using Wireless Communication. I purchased a boom operator’s pole and attached a small ball head to the end usually reserved for the Mic. The pole extends three metres which allows me to shoot from high angles while controlling all exposure options plus focus from my iPhone (free Fujifilm app required).

Fujifilm X-H1 Review | Performance

Whenever discussions turn to digital cameras there are two aspects of any camera that will always get a mention: autofocus and low light performance.

I have specified that I primarily use manual focus and find it is the quickest of all the focusing options, especially with MF assist enabled and for me this is (peaking, low, yellow). Quickest because the process of a lens autofocusing is not just the milliseconds that it takes for the lens to lock onto your subject.

There are additional steps to perform prior to depressing the shutter halfway to lock your focus and it’s with these that I get  a little frustrated with the auto focus process on not only the Fujifilm X-H1 but all the X series cameras I’ve used.

The only practicable AF mode for me, apart from AF-C Tracking is single point, and at that the smallest or next to smallest of the six size options. Here’s the rub: the smaller the square the slower it is to position the point accurately in the viewfinder using the rear toggle lever, and if I use a larger square it’s less precise.

This was borne out when I was using my XF90mmF2 on a night shoot where light levels were very low but AF was practicable because there wasn’t a lot of movement so didn’t have to chase focus. Using the smallest square in Single Point Mode the focus locked on quickly and accurately whereas if I used a larger square the focus would tend to hunt a little.

For me the process is slowed by two things. One, the number of focus points and two, the way you are forced to maneuver the focus square by use of the rear toggle lever which for me is awkward. Even a second or two is a frustratingly long time to take to position your focus point.

Thankfully once you’re there the AF is very quick and accurate but it’s the getting there that’s the issue. I remember in my days as a Canon shooter the camera had less focus points and the ability to toggle through the focus point by means of the rear command dial. It was a quicker more efficient process.

Perhaps a third option of far less points along with the current options of 91 and 325 points is one Fuji could look at.

The AF focus mode that works extremely well in my work is the AF-C, in tracking mode. Keeping oncoming vehicles, people running towards camera in focus is a breeze. The mode has a number of different preset options or you can manually set your parameters. Once the camera locks onto its subject it won’t let go.

I am most satisfied with the low light performance of the X-Trans CMOS III sensor. I frequently have to shoot with ISO’s around 8-10000 during night shoots to get a usable shutter speed and aperture. At this ISO I am able to shoot around 1/100th sec stopped down slightly – f1.8-f2. I hate shooting wide open as no lens is at its best there and depth of field is so much more reduced.

It’s due to the performance of the sensor that I can boost the ISO that extra stop. Additionally the noise is not unpleasant in appearance resembling film grain which gives the images an atmospheric feel which is not unwelcome. Also important to note that it’s in these low light situations the inbuilt IBIS of the Fujifilm X-H1 comes into it’s own.

If necessary I perform slight noise reduction in post but only slight.

Fujifilm X-H1 Review | Image Quality

Judy Davis and Aaron Pedersen ‘Mystery Road’ ABC TV 2018

As a working professional I cannot fault the quality of the optics of the Fujifilm System. I use two zooms, the Fujinon 16-55mm f/2.8 and the 50-140mm f/2.8, and in the primes I have the Fujinon 16mm f/1.4, 23mm f/1.4, 35mm f/1.4, 56mm f/1.2 R and the 90mm f/2. I also have the Fujinon XF2Xx2 teleconverter (extender).

The lenses are sharp and render fine detail beautifully. I primarily use manual focus and find that the lenses vary in their sensitivity and consistency of resistance, ‘feel’ on the lens barrel when used in this mode.

[Related: Shotkit’s favourite Fujifilm X Lenses]

I find the 35mm f/1.4 and 56mm f/1.2 R are least responsive to fine adjustments and for some reason the focus direction on the 16mm f/1.4 and 23mm f/1.4 cannot be changed using the Setup/Button Dial Setting/Focus Ring options.

All other lenses in my kit respond to the Clockwise/Counter clockwise options, why not these two I wonder. Not a game changer and something you get used to but a little frustrating at the same time.

In the past image quality was primarily based on the quality of your lenses. With the arrival of digital it’s now more a combination of optics and sensor. If you shoot RAW then additionally your RAW processor of choice plays a part.

For many years I’ve used Adobe Lightroom Classic for file management and RAW processing. I do 80-90% of my grading with Lightroom and these days most of that is done on my iPad Pro using Lightroom Mobile.

The combination of Lightroom Mobile and the iPad is the perfect duo. I can grade on set during any down time saving me hours of work at home. I also use it to show off my photos to current or prospective clients, it’s my mobile portfolio and something I can’t do without.

Unfortunately what Lightroom Classic is not good at is processing Fuji RAW files.

I had heard mention of this before but as Lightroom is integral to my workflow I didn’t pursue things. This all changed after I had purchased my Fujifilm X-T3.

At the time of purchase Lightroom was unable to process the new X-T3 RAW files so I had to find an alternative. I’m a member of the Fuji X Aus users group and was recommended Iridient X Transformer, ON1, and Capture One as alternatives.

I tried all three and was honestly surprised at how much better all three do in processing Fuji RAW files. The finer details pop and it’s immediately clear that the Fuji lenses are in fact even better than I thought.

Of the three Iridient is the only standalone RAW processor which also comes as a Lightroom Plugin and for me this was the clincher.

Whichever you choose one thing is for certain, all three do a better job at processing Fuji RAW files than Lightroom and will improve your image quality.

Fujifilm X-H1 Review | Conclusions

I love this camera.

For me it is still the top of the line Fujifilm Model with two things making it stand it apart from X-T3.

Firstly how it feels in my hand, two words… solid and secure.

Secondly, IBIS. Hands down more important in my work than the X-Trans 4 processor and improved video capabilities of the X-T3

It’s my go-to body in every situation to the point where I can see myself putting the X-T3 on the market and buying a second Fujifilm X-H1 .

The ratings below are based on a comparison between the X-H1 and my previous camera the X-T2

I hope this review has been helpful.

Cheers JP

Disclaimer: All recommendations are impartial and based on user experience, with no bias to the products or the brand. The products in this post may contain affiliate links.

John Platt is a Unit Still Photographer working out of Sydney, Australia.

Build Quality8
Ergonomics and Handling9
Viewfinder and Screen Quality8
Metering and Focus7
ISO Performance8
Image Quality9


  1. Richard on January 15, 2020 at 10:02 am

    Hi John,

    Happy new year. Great review above, thanks for all the details! Enough to have helped me decide to invest in an X-H1 for my first Mirrorless camera, stepping away from DSLR

    Had a question regarding the silent shutter and your on Set stills that I cant see mentioned anywhere – understand that all mirrorless electronic shutters seem to have the issue of banding in flurescent lights on a set (bar the Sony A9) – is there still the same banding issues within the X-H1?

    Thanks again for such a detailed review.

    • John Platt on January 15, 2020 at 1:00 pm

      Hi Richard,
      Glad you found the review useful in making you decision re the X-H1.
      In regards to the banding, yes you will get banding unless you use a shutter speed that fits into the ‘shutter speed window’ of the power supply Hz.
      In Australia we work on 50hz in the US it’s 60hz.
      So the shutter speeds to use in Aust are 1/100sec 1/50sec 1/25sec or slower, in the states its 1/125sec, 1/60sec 1/30sec or slower.
      I always shoot a couple of test frames to check.

      • Fotopol on January 29, 2020 at 8:15 am

        The X-H1 has flicker reduction. It detects the Hz and adapts accordingly. so no banding whatsoever. Absolutely no need to take into account the Hz when shooting.

        • John Platt on January 29, 2020 at 8:16 pm

          Hi Fotopol, the X-H1 does have flicker reduction but unfortunately that is only with the case when using the mechanical shutter. Richard’s question and my answer was in regards to the electronic shutter where banding is still an issue when shooting in flurescent light.
          I’ve included this paragraph from the Fujifilm website.


          “The FUJIFILM X-H1 has the Flickering Reduction function for controlling exposure and color instability caused by flickering of AC-powered fluorescent lights. The function detects light flicker rate and automatically controls shutter timing to coincide with peak brightness, thereby achieving exposure stability in indoor sports photography (except when using the electronic shutter).”

  2. Brian Carrell on November 25, 2019 at 3:09 am

    Thank you for this review of the X-H1. I’m a long-time Lightroom user, even before Adobe purchased it from Macromedia. I have found that while other converters work better on Fujifilm files, I have been reluctant to stop using it altogether. I recently learned about Iridient X-Transformer as a way to demosaic the files prior to bringing them into Lightroom, but still allowing Lightroom to handle the other RAW tasks and media management. My question is what X-Transformer settings work best for the X-H1? There seems to be a debate on “More Detailed” vs “Smoother” and more confusingly, what sharpening settings to apply, since one of the main issues with Lightroom processing Fujifilm files is trying to cleanly sharpen them. Thank you!

    • John Platt on November 26, 2019 at 10:20 am

      Hi Brian,
      I rely on Lightroom as a file management tool and use Lightroom mobile to edit on the go, no other app has this option which makes it an essential part of my workflow even though it was not the best of the apps when it came to processing the Fuji RAF files.

      Since writing this X-H1 review Adobe released the Lightroom upgrade that included the ‘Enhance Details’ option.
      I found that with my X-H1 files Enhancing Details matched the output Iridient X produced and so discontinued using it.

      Out of interest though and as a result of your comment I went back and looked at it again, this time using a RAW file from my new GFX-50s. I compared a portrait image processed in Iridient, Lightroom and Adobe camera RAW then viewed in Photoshop on my 27″ iMac at 200%. (looking at fine eyebrow hairs)

      To cut a long story short I found that Iridient X set at ‘More Detailed’ and ‘Medium’ sharpness only just beat out the file processed in Lightroom , Enhanced and sharpened in Lightroom and third was the file opened in Adobe Camera Raw and sharpened using unsharp mask in Photoshop.

      Having said all this I needed to view the results at 200% to see any difference in sharpness between them.
      At 100% I would challenge anyone to see it.

      So for the sake of editing efficiency I will continue to use the Enhance Details and sharpen in Lightroom. Even though my results showed what they did the difference is so little that for me the extra time in Iridient is just not worth it.

      All the best and good luck with it all

  3. Joel Sackett on November 17, 2019 at 6:46 am

    Great review, thanks. I’m a pro working with the XT2 and an XPro2. I use the XT2 about 90% of the time. I’m hooked on the floppy screen and won’t buy another camera without one. The XPro2 is mostly nostalgia for my film Leicas, and a good back-up forthe XT2. Yes, I have a question about the X-H1. Do you ever feel it heat up and even shut down? Is overheating an issue? I would be using it for still only.

    • John Platt on November 18, 2019 at 7:50 am

      Hey Joel,
      Thanks for the comment re the review.
      I use the X-H1 solely for stills, and have shot in locations with temperatures that have ranged from -2c to 40c and have never felt the camera heat up due to use, let alone shut down.

  4. Pete on November 11, 2019 at 5:17 am

    Great review! I do love the X-H1– A few questions:
    * Do you find 24mp to be limiting in anyway?
    *Whats your opinion on if there will be a Fuji X-H2? Higher MP?
    * What about using the Fuji gfx-s line with 50mp
    *Have you tried Sony’s at all like their 24 or 40mp+ range for shooting
    * What about Sony and their new 60mp,would this be over kill or welcomed for doing stills?

    Again thank you for your write up

    • John Platt on November 13, 2019 at 8:02 am

      Hi Pete,
      Glad you liked the review and in answer to your questions.
      I have never found the 24mp APS-c sensor limiting in any way. Of course it comes down to what your end use if for your imagery. In my line of work shooting Production Stills on Film and TV the vast majority of my work is viewed on computers or other devices such as tablets or phones as part of any productions promotional process.
      I shoot RAW which gives me a 48mp image, once graded I deliver to the publicists a 6mb JPEG which is sufficient for their uses in the majority of circumstances. On the other hand I have also had posters (60cm x 42cm) produced from my X-H1’s images.

      I have no inkling on what Fuji has in store for us with any advances in the X-H range but I would have thought if they planned to bring out a higher Resolution sensor they would have done so with the recently released X-Pro3. Instead they stayed with the XTrans 4 sensor with it’s 6240 x 4160 pixel count.

      I own a GFX-50s and two lenses, the GF45mm f2,8 and GF110mm f2. I absolutely love this camera and carry it with me on set at all times, primarily to shoot cast portraits. I initially purchased it with Key Art studio photography in mind and have used it for where the range of final uses of the images is more varied up to 24 sheet posters where the extra resolution is preferable. It’s a camera you are forced to take a bit more time with, and thats a good thing. I have found it perfect for when you are one on one with an actor working to get an in character portrait. It has an extra 2 stops of dynamic range over the X-H1’s which gives more details in the shadows and highlight areas. The quality of the lenses are outstanding and the smaller depth of field with the larger sensor can be used to your advantage. Even the GF45mm with its similar angle of view to a 35mm in full frame terms has limited depth at its wider stops with focus falling off quite quickly. Fuji have managed to keep the size of the body down to where it isn’t that much bigger than the X-H’s and people are blown away when I remove the lens and show them the size of the sensor within.

      I looked at the Sony range but discounted it due to cost and size. Not so much the bodies but lenses. I can literally shoot one handed, around corners, if need be with the use of the three axis rear screen on the X-H1 and the smaller, lighter lenses that system.

      In my opinion a 60mp Sony is overkill for someone in my line of work. There are others who would disagree and would argue that I use the 50mp GFX which I do but for the reasons stated above and not for the bread and butter unit stills work where limited time is the norm.

      Hope all that helps

  5. Nick Hasselblad (yes, really) on September 5, 2019 at 10:21 am

    Thanks, Mr. Platt—your review finally pushed me over the edge for the X-H1, am now convinced enough to push the $ release button.

    • John Platt on September 6, 2019 at 9:15 am

      Hey Nick,
      Great prices around at the moment for a great camera. I’m sure you enjoy using it as much as I do. Thanks for leaving the comment.

  6. Iris Keenkade on August 20, 2019 at 3:40 am

    I’ve been shooting with the X-T3 since it’s release, and while I love the 4k60 aspect of the camera, I have been shooting 4k24 more and more. That’s to say nothing of all the photos I take, especially in lower lighting. The X-H1 has always been something I’ve wanted to try, and recently it was marked down again, and your review pushed me over the edge. I used to own a G9 and the IBIS made such an amazing difference I honestly have missed the camera for that alone. I can’t wait for the X-H1 to arrive!

    • John Platt on August 20, 2019 at 12:03 pm

      Hi Iris,
      I’m sure you will find it a great addition to your gear in a line of work that doesn’t at first come to mind when considering the advantages of IBIS. Thanks for leaving the comment and all the best.

      • Dante Dancel on August 28, 2019 at 6:59 pm

        Thanks John for the great review, i owned xt2 for couple if years shooting nature and it is a great camera but recently traded it with XH1 and with your review I’m now confident with my decision.IBIS is very big deal to me coz of my bilateral rotator cuff injuries. My new XH1 is on the way and can’t wait to bring to shoot nature. Thanks again.

        • John Platt on August 29, 2019 at 7:49 am

          Hi Dante,
          So pleased you found the review useful and I’m sure you will enjoy the new camera.
          Kind regards

  7. Brice Rowe on August 16, 2019 at 5:27 pm

    Hi John
    As with all your other responses above I have to agree that your review of the X-H1 has been the clincher for me.

    I have been shooting with an XT20 for over two years now and because I love the Fuji image quality have decided to upgrade to a water resistant body. I have been reviewing the XT3 for quite a while until someone told me about the X-H1. I liked the idea of the better (deeper) handgrip and the positioning of the shutter button ( find the button on XT20 and XT3 makes it feel a little off balance in my hand) .

    I was wavering about the EH1 until I read your review and I am now picking one up tomorrow morning. So many trashy and wispy washy reviews out there. Yours was a breath of fresh air and covered all the areas I was interested in.

    Please continue to do reviews as you are a natural.

    Warm Regards
    Brice Rowe

    • John Platt on August 18, 2019 at 7:54 am

      Hey Brice,
      I’ve found it interesting the number of people who, when asking what I shoot with, have not heard of the X-H1.
      It’s Fuji’s hidden gem and because it was promoted more for it’s video capabilities than stills most of us have come to it late, mainly due to word of mouth. The solid feel of the camera, combined with the battery grip in my hand was the clincher for me. Even without IBIS I would have gone for it, having it though puts the camera in a different space and by far the best option for me with Unit Stills where low light is the norm. Enjoy the camera.

  8. Steph on August 8, 2019 at 2:59 am

    Thanks for this review, I had been interested in the XH1 for a while and this write-up was the final push I needed. Couldn’t be happier with my purchase. Next up is the 23mm f1.4.

    • John Platt on August 8, 2019 at 12:15 pm

      Hi Steph, Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment, lets me know I’m on the right track with my style of reviewing. I agree the X-H1 really is a terrific camera and also couldn’t be happier with my two.
      I’m not sure if you were aware but I also did a review on the XF23mm f1.4, heres the link.
      All the best, John

  9. Martin on June 17, 2019 at 7:20 pm

    Hi John. I stumbled accross your review of the xh1 and some lenses. So stoked i did ! After watching so many reviews on youtube it can all start to get a bit much. But i love your honesty and true to ozzy style no bull. So after selling my canon 1dx mkii and now in the process of selling my canon lenses, ill be picking up tbe xh1 with the grip. Lenses will be 10-24, 16 1.4, 23 1.4, 35 1.4 ,50 f2, and the samyang 12mm f2. I cant wait. You mentioned that tbe lens mount on the x series are a little loose? Is this something comon to the fuji x bodies or do you only find it when using tbe long heavy lens like the 50-140. Do you have any reviews on the above lenses that ill be acquiring. Keep up the great work John.

    • John Platt on June 18, 2019 at 1:17 pm

      Hi Martin, In regards to the little bit movement in the mount it applies to all the lenses I have. 16-55mm, 50-140mm, 16 1.4, 23 1.4,35 1.4, 56 1.2 and 90 f2. It’s not the end of the world by any means, just the purest in me wishes it wasn’t there. I have just purchased the GFX-50s and those lenses are rock solid in their mount. I have done reviews on the 23mm f1.4 and 90mm f2, both on Shotkit. That 90mm is so sharp, a beautiful lens. 35mm f1.4 is a sharper lens than the f2 model but it falls away in focus more to the edges than the f2 does. For me it’s the centre of the frame that counts so went with the f1.4. Things improve of course as you close the lens down.
      Glad I could be of help and that you liked the review.

  10. Chris Yates on June 16, 2019 at 4:19 am

    Hello John, This is the finest review on the Fujifilm X-H1 on the web. As a 30 year Canon shooter, who switched to Sony, I have always been intrigued by Fujifilm offerings as a challenge, not to give up on Sony. Your first hand unbiased truthful review and the IBIS system in this Fujifilm convinced me to purchased the XH1 . I primarily use my Leica and Mamiya manual focus lenses but looking forward to purchasing Fujifilm glass soon. I also would not have purchased this camera without the free grip and 3 batteries since I am so accustomed to Canon 1D bodies. Thank you for your time and review. Chris Yates

    • John Platt on June 16, 2019 at 9:47 am

      Cheers Chris, Thanks for the comment and glad you found the review helpful. I was a Canon user as well prior to getting into my current work where I considered Sony but went the Fuji route in the end. In regards to the handgrip. It’s my experience that it’s essential to getting the best out of the camera and the deeper grip on the X-H1 is the best of the Fuji offerings.
      All the best

  11. Jacob R. on June 15, 2019 at 8:25 am

    Hi John – thanks for this review. Having been a pro shooter since the mid 1970’s it seems my dna still has to come to terms with digital camera interfaces. Even though having owned digital cameras now for about 14 years I’m still on a roller-coaster to find what ‘clicks’ with me. From Olympus to Nikon to Fuji to Olympus to Nikon back and forth for years. Recently thought “Olympus is it’ – after discovering their outright spectacular lenses and …. perfectly working hoods !! Man their Pro lenses rock – they beat even my old Rolleiflex 6008 lenses with ease, so well built and performance. But aver the past months since I own the last Oly model and got stuck when the camera decided to stick to a setting I wanted to change but could not work out which of all those buttons and menus to use I had had it.
    Then looked back in my archive and realized the photos I had taken with the Fuji Xt-2 had a higher artistic quality and thinking about the experiences with the Fuji camera in general were more fun – besides the somewhat sloppy bayonet and ridiculous hoods and lens-caps and problematic RAW from Lightroom – and now I downloaded Irridient after reading your comment on it and for sure – that solved that problem !! I always had kept my Fuji Xpro-1 with 23 2.0 as a hobby camera . Last year it was my only camera on a 3 month Europe travel – soooo much fun !!
    A few days ago compared a macro session with that Fuji Xpro1 and the OIy – zoomed in 800% and guess what the Fuji beat the brand new Oly by miles in the shadows.
    So already a few days before I read your review was looking again at fuji Xt and Xh … living in a very remote part of NSW (IN the West corner of Warrumbungle N.P.) I rely on reviews – most of them are useless blabbering from Millennials as you stated so sharp. Then I read your real life experience with the XH1 and that nailed it for me.
    Will get a XH-1 , and hope it ‘click’s – I am pretty sure it does. Back to ‘old fart’ dials and … sighh … sell all Oly gear , even though I know I will miss the lenses ;-)

    • John Platt on June 16, 2019 at 10:08 am

      Hi Jacob, So glad you liked the review on the X-H1. You mention you have the 23mm f2, If you are in the market for other lenses there are also review I wrote for the 90mm f2 on Shotkit. In regards to Lightroom and Fuji RAW files, have you tried the ‘Enhance’ feature in the latest Lightroom update? I tested it against Iridient and found it to do as good a job in regaining the fine details that are lost when Lightroom converts the Fuji RAW files.
      Enjoy the camera when you get your hands on it

  12. Dave on May 8, 2019 at 11:27 pm

    John, are you using IBIS on the “continuous” or “shoot only” setting?

    • John Platt on May 9, 2019 at 11:37 am

      Hey Dave, I have always used it on continuous.

  13. Philip Sutton on May 4, 2019 at 1:41 am

    What an awesome review – the best by far that I have read. I purchased the H1 just over a week ago (great deal now), so have been reading everything I can about it. This was such a great review from somebody who uses them professionally, on a daily basis and as their bread and butter. Very interesting that you are thinking of selling the T3 off to get another H1. Kind of the conclusion that I arrived at (I have two X-T2’s) – better the IBIS for my 90mm F2, than any updates to the sensor on the T3. That was the clincher that made me buy the H1. Like you I have one of my X-T2’s on ‘fleabay’ at the moment – the H1 is so good on the 90mm, it has made one of my T2’s obsolete. Once again John, thanks so much for taking the time to write such a mature, informative review. There is so much rubbish out there today, from ‘Millennials’, waffling on in ‘cool’ language that really doesn’t tell you anything. This was a breath of fresh air. Philip

    • John Platt on May 4, 2019 at 8:31 am

      Thanks for the comment Peter, glad you found the review useful. I now use two X-H1’s having sold the X-T3 shortly after writing the review. Your comment re the 90mm and IBIS is spot on. It’s my go to lens for portraits on set where the light at times is low, to say the least and IBIS makes all the difference in getting a usable image with that focal length.
      All the best

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